Travel | Hokkaido mid-May 2015 | Hakodate Morning Market 函館朝市 Hakodate Asaichi

My friend, a frequent traveller to Japan, once said this to me, "Seafood taste so much better in Hakodate." Armed with that mantra, Hakodate naturally had to be included as part of the plan when exploring Hokkaido. Getting to Hakodate from Sapporo, was easy and takes about 3 hours plus by JR Rail. Want to know more about JR ticket reservation, what's the experience was like travelling via the Super Hokuto 6? Read about it  here.

Arrived on a Tuesday at about noon time. The Hakodate JR Station has a souvenir shop right after you're out from the gates. It sells all the necessary omiyage plus alcoholic beverages like beer and wine too. Some items are limited to Hakodate. Ugh, was so tempted to buy those local wine... But first, have to hurry to the market to see if the shops are still open. Still need to get lunch and to recce on dried scallops. The family has indicated that they'd like a kilo of those dried goodies.

Weather wasn't great and the sky was gray with slight drizzle. The Morning Market is within walking distance from Hakodate JR Station. Less than 5 minutes walk.

this way to Hakodate Morning Market

Donburi Yokocho

Decided to check out the market first. Some stalls are still open but most are already done for the day. Operating hours for the stalls are mostly till 12pm, and a few till 2pm.

seafood shopping

Was walking around looking for dried scallops when a sudden attack of delicious aroma was detected. It was so enticing that I went in search of the source of this wonderful smell. Ahah! Found it.

Huge scallops in shell being grilled over the fire. Bubbling in simple shoyu sauce. The stall owner asked if I want any. Nodded. (Tip: If you see this stall, just buy more. One is never enough and its price is good for its size. You'll know in later post.). I think the shop is called 手作り いっせきにちょう or Isseki Nicho.

grilled seafood stall

grilled scallop ¥500 (original price: ¥600)

There are empty tables nearby that stall, so one could eat comfortably there. Piping hot scallop on a cold day, makes a perfect companion. Tasty, sweet and full of umami goodness. Flesh was firm and comfortably bouncy. It was so good that I wanted to slurp all the juice up (but that would be an overdose on saltiness!)

Come to think of it, it didn't occur to me that I should get some other grilled items like oysters or abalone or maybe another scallop, or even beer. Sighs. Think I was saving some stomach space for proper lunch.

closer view of grilled scallops

Didn't buy alot of stuffs from the market though. Bought some snacks of dried squid and of course, dried scallops. Not sure if I'm supposed to get the snack kind or the cook porridge kind. Hmm.

For dried squid snacks, one pack is about ¥500. The guy at the stall was friendly and tried to converse but my Japanese is really rookie. Nevertheless, his prices are reasonable. The "in snack" seemed to be salmon jerky, but I really don't like the texture of that, nor the taste of it. Also bought some dried soft scallops snack. Bought 2 packs of 500gms each for ¥4500 (after discount). Its price ranges from ¥2500 to ¥3500 per pack, depending on vendor.

dried soft scallop snack

Got some dried scallops to boil soup kind at ¥1100 from a stall that's outside the market. Not sure if that's expensive or reasonable.

the loot

Travel | Hokkaido mid-May 2015 | Daimaru Department Store - Food and Sweets

Sapporo Station's department stores are amazing! The things that I needed, can all be found in Daimaru Department Store, basement level.

After having walked a few thousand steps in Day 2 of Sapporo solo travel trip, decided to dump all the shopping stuffs in the hotel room before venturing out to see what to eat for dinner.

The food hall of Daimaru was bustling with activities. Stall owners will entice customers with slashed down prices, and so I bought a yakisoba from Heichinrou stall with a marked down price of ¥400 (usual price was ¥600). Also bought desserts from LeTao counter. Sweet!

seafood yakisoba from 聘珍樓

there's prawn, squid, scallop, clams and crab meat

Seriously tasty stuff from Heichinrou and the seafood was good. Just that it was cold. Should this be microwaved first? Anyway, was hungry that this bowl was wolfed down in minutes.

Then, followed by coffee and cakes. The sweets from LeTao is pretty famous, especially its double fromage.

a slice of LeTAO double fromage cake and in-room drip coffee

closer view of the cheesecake

The cheesecake was light and creamy. It was a tad sweeter than the cake from Kinotoya. Worth a try, but desserts here cost as much as the yakisoba. Haha!

The pastry from Kinotoya きのとや, was excellent. Go for its croquant. The only regret that I had, was that I only got one of those amazing pastry. Should've gone there everyday!

custard croquant from Kinotoya

how to resist?

The custard croquant shell was so crunchy that its like eating caramelized sugar shell. Very likeable sweetness. The crushed almonds on its shell was so good and that custard fillings, oh my, so yums! Must buy, must eat! Highly recommended.

Also tried its coffee cake, which was pretty mild but that was also because I had it the next day for breakfast. Am liking Kinotoya.

coffee cake

When one is in Sapporo, do aim for desserts once a day every day. Wanted to do that, but not possible at times as the department stores food hall closes pretty early by 8+ in the evening, if not wrong.

Travel | Hokkaido mid-May 2015 | Sushizanmai Susukino すしざんまい すすきの店

Prior to visiting Hokkaido, the planner in me had made a list of potential eating places around Sapporo. Places like Ramen Alley and Ebiten were added to my Sapporo Eats Google Map. However, it took me quite a while to walk to Susukino from Sapporo Station as many detours were made to visit the touristy sights along the way.

And so, it was already 2pm when I finally reached Susukino. It also took me longer than expected to find the famous Ramen Alley. Surprisingly small and since it wasn't exactly lunch hour, the place was kind of deserted. Prices for a bowl of ramen there ranges from ¥1000 upwards.

must have picture when in Susukino

Next, wanted to check out Ebiten Bunten for its fried tempura but sadly, it was already 245pm when I found it. The shop was having its mid-day break then.

Finally settled on having sushi for lunch as I spotted Sushizanmai from across the street. The shop was quite spacious and was really empty. Guessed no one eats sushi for tea-break.

Weather was hot, and it was rather tiring having walked from Sapporo to Odori, and Odori to Susukino. An order of beer is a must.

draft beer @¥450 with compulsory otoshi @¥200

Was seated at the sushi counter and had access to the chef. For drinks, the waitress took the order. For sushi, one could inform the sushi chef directly.

The cold beer was served together with a compulsory otoshi お通し. As usual, a warm towel or oshibori おしぼり was provided as soon as you're seated. The otoshi was vinegared vege and seaweed. Tasty.

As I was the only customer then, chef was able to serve out the sushi fairly quickly. The North Island platter has botan ebi, uni, ikura, hotate (scallop), kani (crab) and shellfish. Adequate wasabi has already been added to the sushi hence, there was no need to request for more. I did, and chef really gave a large pinch of wasabi.

North Island 6-piece sushi platter 北海六宝盘 @¥1080

Was kind of awkward to be sitting at the counter since I can't converse in Japanese. Chef would go about his activities, which included chopping up the leftover odd pieces of the sashimi.

The botan ebi was nicely firm and full of seafood umami. Was sucking the head of the prawn when chef suddenly came over and took the prawn head from me. Was a tad surprised. He then helped to break it further so that its easier to suck. Haha.

Loved the scallop for its sweetness. Fresh tasting uni that's creamy and non-funky. Enjoyable and inexpensive. Made an extra order of hamachi for ¥148 a piece. I think 7 pieces of sushi is about the max for me. No more room, otherwise, there's still chutoro and otoro! Come to think of it, I didn't get any of those during this trip. -_-'''